“Authenticity” gets thrown around a lot these days, perhaps as a pushback against curated social media. But the real thing isn’t elusive. You can find it as soon as you walk into Che Fico, the San Francisco restaurant where the convivial hum of diners and hearty, yeasty aroma of pizzas baking waft over you.
Summary
Wine: 2023 Colli Tortenesi ‘Derthona’
Region: Tortona (Colli Tortonesi DOC), Piedmont, Italy
Grape: 100% Timorasso
Style: Dry white wine
Alcohol: 14%
Producer: Claudio Mariotto
The Timorasso was medium gold with a subtle greenish tint around the edges, showing lemon, green apple, and pear aromas and flavors. It had bright acidity with a medium-plus body (like a Chardonnay), but it had an ephemeral quality that whispered, I’m from Piedmont, a reminder that Timorasso is a native Piedmontese varietal.
It matched the citrusy vinaigrette in the Insalata Tritata and cut through the cheese in the Pizze Margherita. Timorasso is my new favorite white, and a perfect example of why it pays to seek out restaurants that offer thoughtful wines by the glass, so you can taste something surprising and fall in love.
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