Square One, Literally

My food and wine story opens at Square One, Joyce Goldstein’s restaurant in San Francisco’s Financial District and the start of my experience with California-Mediterranean cuisine. I can still picture the light streaming through the large glass windows, making tablecloths brilliantly white and reflecting off the silverware. The patrons wore dark suits, starched shirts, either white or blue. Despite being there to discuss business, the mood was convivial, even jovial, no doubt from Ms. Goldstein’s vibrant food and energetic and welcoming staff.

I was pretty sure I had a lamb ragout. To confirm my memory, I looked for a menu online but couldn’t find one. Instead, I found a New York Times article by Bryan Miller dated May 27, 1987 and there it was, a description of the lamb ragout: “soothing and homey, alive with lots of garlic, thyme and a hint of orange zest.”  That’s exactly what I had!

I didn’t have wine then  – it was a recruiting lunch – plus I knew nothing about wine. If I could go back in time, I’d go for dinner, not lunch, and order a glass of 2019 Shafer “Relentless” Napa Valley Syrah. More on the Shafer Relentless in the next post.

And, yes, I took the job.