And survival and rediscovery.
Before the phylloxera insect devastated Europe’s vineyards in the 19th century, Chilean vintners had already imported cuttings of Bordeaux varieties. Among them was Carménère, mistaken for Merlot, for many years. In 1994, French ampelographer Jean-Michel Boursiquot examined Chilean vines and determined that they were actually Carménère. Today, Chile is Carménère’s adopted home.
Summary
Wine: 2022 K-Barrel Reserva Carménère
Region: Lontue Valley, Chile
Grape: 100% Carménère
Style: Dry red wine
Alcohol: 13.5%
Producer: Kinast Family Wines
Tasting
Deep purple in color, with medium aroma and flavor intensity. Initial herbaceous notes of oregano and tomato leaf give way to a medium finish of dark chocolate, coffee and tobacco. As the wine opens over half an hour, its early exuberance settles to reveal top fruit notes like red cherry and red plum.
Pairing
The label suggested pairing with seared tuna and roasted Mediterranean vegetables, but I thought it would pair better with beef. After all, Carménère’s rootstock came from Bordeaux so even in the new terroir of Chile, Carménère can match with richer dishes. I had it with Wasabi Steak (see in Recipes) because beef serves as a solid foundation to the wasabi’s crisp heat that echoes Carménère’s green herbal essence.
Why It’s Important
In the late 19th century, phylloxera (an insect that was accidentally introduced to Europe) struck European vines, destroying its vineyards. The antidote was grafting European vines to American rootstock which was resistant to phylloxera. Phylloxera was not a problem in Chile so the Carménère vine literally keeps its French roots, now shaped by Chile’s climate and soil.
Link to interview with Jean-Michel Boursiquot: https://www.decanterchina.com/en/knowledge/people/vineyard-experts/exclusive-interview-the-man-who-discovered-carmenere
Description of phylloxera adapted from WSET Level 3, Understanding Wines: Explaining Style and Quality.
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