Where San Francisco Gathers: A Night at Le Central

On an unusually frigid San Francisco evening during the recent cold snap, there was only one choice: French onion soup at Le Central. A legendary San Francisco institution, Le Central is a classic French bistro and long-standing gathering place for politicians, business leaders, artists and musicians, most famously Willie Brown, who has made it a regular haunt over the years. The soup delivered pure comfort on a cold night with its rich, deeply flavored broth, sweet onions, and bubbling cheese.

It also provided the perfect backdrop for exploring the excellent wine list curated by Le Central’s talented owner, Dave Gabine. Dave consistently puts together thoughtful, engaging selections. On this evening, I focused on white Rhône wines.

Wine #1         

Thomas Farge Les Jardins de Chavagnac
Appellation: IGP Collines Rhodaniennes
Vintage: 2020
Region:  Rhône Valley, France
Grape:   Viognier, Marsanne, Roussanne
Style:     Dry white
Alcohol: 14.0%
Farming: Certified organic
Vines: 50-year old vines at 400 meter/1312 feet elevation

Deep gold in color, with aromas of pear, white flower blossoms, vanilla, and a clear minerality. This wine paired beautifully with the French onion soup, its acidity and freshness complementing the soup’s richness.

Wine #2

Lionel Faury Le Momieux   
Appellation: Condrieu
Vintage: 2023
Region:  Northern Rhône, France
Grape:   Viognier
Style:     Dry white
Alcohol: 14.5%
Vines: Planted between 1976 and 2007

Expressive and aromatic, showing apricot and abundant floral notes. The vines grow on granite soils on steep slopes, some reaching grades of 55%. Le Momieux takes its name from the river that runs below the parcel. Grapes are hand-harvested, gently pressed using a pneumatic press, fermented in stainless steel cuves (vats). Aged 11 months on the lees, 10% new barrels, 30% 2 to 5 year old barrels, and 60% stainless steel.

I enjoyed this wine with the Salade d’Endives, carefully avoiding the blue cheese (that could overpower the floral aromas and palate) until after the wine was finished, saving the cheese for later.

The evening ended on a festive note, with jasmine tea (echoing the floral theme) from Damman Frères and a Bûche de Noël. After all, it’s almost Christmas!

Resource: Kermit Lynch newsletter

Link: https://kermitlynch.com/wine/lionel-faury/441/FY02