Visiting Wakayama: Nanko Ume’s Homeland

It was time to visit the homeland of my nanko ume: Wakayama, located to the south of Osaka on the Kii peninsula. I went to Wakayama to meet a couple of producers and experience the heart of Japan’s plum culture.

I had the pleasure of meeting Mr. Yoshiaki Nakata, CEO of Nakata Foods Co., Ltd. Link to Nakata Foods: https://www.nakatafoods.com

Mr. Nakata and I compared notes on similarities and differences in the cultivation of nanko ume. Wakayama’s generous rainfall means the orchards are lush. In contrast, my two nanko ume trees in Napa must contend with a more arid climate.

The surprising twist on Napa’s dry climate is pests. There aren’t any (so far anyway). Because ume are outsiders in that ecosystem, the trees go largely unbothered. As Mr. Nakata surmised, “In Napa, grapes are part of a familiar food chain for pests but ume are strangers, so insects ignore them.”

We also talked about how growers in Wakayama prune their trees to encourage horizontal rather than vertical growth. Branches that stretch wide make for easier harvesting when the fruit ripens in abundance.

No visit would have been complete without tastings. Nakata Foods presented a flight that showcased just how versatile umeshu can be. Classic, golden-hued umeshu captured the fruit’s bright tartness balanced with a gentle sweetness. Nakata Foods creates a barrel-aged version that had a mouthfeel similar to port.

Visiting Wakayama reinforced how terroir is vital for ume (as it is for wine grapes). Rainfall, soil, air, and history all leave their mark on the fruit. That sense of place carries directly into a glass of umeshu.